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Hair Structure and Why It Matters for Healthy Locks

Health Research July 2, 2026 5 min read
Hair Structure and Why It Matters for Healthy Locks

The Three Layers of Hair

Your hair shaft consists of three distinct layers working together to protect and maintain strength.

The Cuticle is the outermost protective layer made of overlapping scales. When these scales lie flat, light reflects evenly, creating shine. When raised, hair appears dull and rough.

The Cortex contains proteins and melanin, giving hair its color and strength. Most hair damage occurs in this layer.

The Medulla is the innermost core, though not all hair has a visible medulla—it's sometimes absent in fine hair.

Porosity: A Key Property

Hair porosity determines how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture. High porosity hair absorbs moisture readily but loses it quickly. Low porosity hair resists moisture but, once penetrated, holds it well. Normal porosity hair has a balanced moisture level.

Understanding your porosity helps you select appropriate products and treatments.

Protein and Moisture Balance

Hair needs both protein for strength and moisture for elasticity. Too much protein without adequate moisture causes brittleness. Conversely, too much moisture without protein leads to weakness and breakage.

How Hair Grows

Hair grows in cycles: Anagen (growth phase, 2-7 years), Catagen (transition phase, 2-3 weeks), and Telogen (resting phase, 2-4 months). At the end of telogen, hair sheds naturally—shedding 50-100 hairs daily is normal.

Scalp Health Foundation

A healthy scalp produces the oils (sebum) your hair needs for protection and shine. Scalp massage improves circulation, promoting healthier hair growth and a more balanced scalp environment.

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